Architecture of Avignon, Provence, France

UNESCO Sites: Historic Center

Must-See Sites: Papal Palace and Cathedral, Pont d’Avignon, and Medieval Walls

Overview

It’s hard to find a city with a history as complicated and dynamic as Avignon. One of only two cities on earth that can claim to be the headquarters of the Catholic Church, the other being Rome. Avignon Architecture may not be as diverse as other in other cities, but the period of the Avignon Papacy created incredible buildings unlike any others in Europe.

Avignon was a medieval center of art, learning, and architecture, but was still constantly overshadowed by greater rivals such as the Franks and the Holy Roman Empire. Throughout the centuries, it has remained a truly unique place. Today Avignon is the 45^th largest city in France according to numbers from 2013, but despite its smaller size, it is still a top tourist destination.

Pre-history and Roman Era

Avignon was first settled during the late Bronze Age, with a few archeological finds dating from that time. The settlement started out on top of the Rocher des Doms, the highest point in the city, where Jardin des Doms is located today. Over the centuries it grew into one of the top cities on the Rhône River and is known to have traded with other cities such as Marseille as early as the 4th century BCE. Eventually, in 120 BCE the Roman Republic came, saw, and conquered the entire region around Avignon. They renamed the city, Avennio.

Today, unlike other cities in Southern France such as Nimes and Orange, the Romans didnt really leave a lasting impact on Avignon’s Architecture. The modern square of Place de l’Horloge is on the spot of the ancient Roman Forum, and a few stones from antiquity can be found at the edge of the plaza.

There are also the remnants of a Roman foundation at the base of the Papal Palace. But if you really want to see impressive Roman sites, you’ll have to venture out of Avignon, the closest one worth seeing is definitely the Pont Du Gard, a Roman aqueduct about 30 minutes’ drive from the city center.

Early Middle Ages

As the Roman Empire waned, Avignon became ruled by a host of different groups during the Early Middle Ages. These include Germanic Tribes such as the Ostrogoths, and Burgundians, the Franks, Islamic invaders from Andalusia, and many others. There aren’t really any significant buildings from this time period, due in large part from the sacking of the city by Charles Martel, the Frankish King in the 8^th century.

Medieval Architecture in Avignon: The Carolingian Empire and Holy Roman Empire

After Avignon was besieged by the Franks, it was quickly swallowed up into the Kingdom of France, which became the Carolingian Empire, which over the centuries developed into modern France. During this time construction began on one of Avignon’s most notable sites, the Pont d’Avignon. Also known as the Pont Saint-Bénézet, this Medieval Bridge once stretched for approximately 3,000 feet and stood on 21 stone arches. It replaced a wooden bridge that had been built in the same location a few centuries prior.

Over time the Pont d’Avignon slowly fell into disrepair. The annual flooding of the Rhône River caused portions of the bridge to collapse. The bridge was continuously being repaired until eventually the decision was made to give up and let the bridge slowly fall apart. Today there are only 4 arches or about 500 feet of the bridge remaining.

During the 12^th century, the local government began construction of the Cathedral of Avignon. The cathedral was built in a Romanesque style like many other churches in France from this time period. Over time, the church was added to and modified. Side chapels, a taller bell tower, and a gilded statue were all added in the following centuries.

Avignon Architecture during the Avignon Papacy

In 1305, after the death of his predecessor, Clement V was elected Pope. A wealthy French nobleman, one of his first decisions as Pope was to have his coronation within France, rather than in Italy. After his coronation, Clement decided to just stay within France and control the Catholic Church from Avignon.

The Avignon Papacy continued for another 7 Popes and 67 years until in 1376 Pope Gregory XI moved the Papacy back to its original birthplace in Rome. However, soon after this, a separation occurred between Rome and Avignon. A separate, and some would say illegitimate, Pope ruled from Avignon while there was simultaneously a Pope in Rome. This schism in the church continued until the start of the 15^th century.

For over 100 years, the Papacy left a lasting impact on the architecture of Avignon. Today most of the city’s greatest buildings date from this period. The Popes had access to some of the immense wealth that the Catholic Church had at its disposal.  The skyline of Avignon is dominated by the city’s largest building, The Palais des Papes, or Papal Palace.

Construction on the palace began in 1334. The interior and exterior were both built of stone in a Gothic Style, and to this day is one of the best and largest representations of Gothic Architecture. Within the grounds of the palace, there are several great halls, two huge enclosed cloisters, many towers, chapels, and various other rooms occupied by the Popes and the rest of the governing members of the church.

The Palace was designed with defense in mind. Not only was it built on top of a massive rock formation, but it contained tall defensive towers with ramparts similar to militant medieval castles. To the west of the palace lies The Place du Palais, one of the largest public squares in Avignon.

Stories of the massive Papal Palace and the riches of art, artifacts, and gold stored within traveled throughout the Rhône river valley, and during the early stages of the Avignon Papacy bands of mercenaries were known to attack the city. Despite having a palace that resembled a military fortress, the Popes began the construction of the Ramparts of Avignon in the middle of the 14^th century to add to the defenses; I guess you can never be too careful. The ramparts have a perimeter of about 2.8 miles and thankfully have survived the ages. Today they are some of the best-preserved medieval walls in all of Europe.

During Avignon’s Papal heyday, many other significant buildings were constructed. Some of the most notable examples include Saint Pierre’s Basilica, The Church of Saint Agricol, and a 14th-century building which now houses the Musée du Petit Palais. The remnants of an old fortress of the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem also dates from this time period. Although mostly destroyed, one large tower called the Tour Saint Jean still stands within Place Saint-Jean le Vieux.

After the schism ended, and the Papacy moved back to Rome, Avignon still remained under the control of the Popes. For centuries French Monarchs, including three different Louis, tried to take over Avignon. But official annexation of Avignon by the French Government wasn’t made official by the Pope until 1814.

Industrial Revolution in Avignon

After the departure of the Papacy, Avignon became less of an economic and political center. The Pont d’Avignon was left in a state of disrepair, and no massive projects in line with the Papal Palace were undertaken. The Place de l’Horloge was developed along with the Rue de la République, Avignon’s main commercial street. Most of the buildings in this part of the city date from the 19^th century, including the Grand Opera House and the Hôtel de Ville or City Hall. Avignon’s most famous park, The Jardin des Doms, was also heavily modified. Today it is one of the top outdoor attractions in Avignon, with fountains, statues, and manmade ponds all dating from the 1800s.

Modern Architecture in Avignon

Like most medieval fortified cities, Avignon spread far and wide outside the walls in modern times. Nowadays the city is home to almost 100,000 people. It is well connected by rail with both Paris and Marseille. One notable modern building is the Halles d’Avignon, a large indoor market with a lively green wall overlooking an outdoor plaza.

Conclusion

In a lot of ways, Avignon is a city like no other. Yes, it feels like a lot of other cities in Provence and the rest of Southern France, but to me, the period of the Avignon Papacy really sets it apart. After all, the Palais des Papes is definitely one of the top two Papal Palaces of all time… But in all seriousness, Avignon and Avignon Architecture stand out for there historic and monumental buildings. It has a storied past that is very apparent in its buildings, streets, and squares. Any trip to the south of France would not be complete without at least one day in Avignon.

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