Architecture of Munich, Bavaria, Germany

Overview

Must-See Sites in Munich: Marienplatz, Frauenkirche, Nymphenburg Palace, Munich Beer Gardens

Munich Architecture spans about 1000 years from the 10th century until today. Just about every style in architectural history can be found within the city limits. Many people visit Munich just to enjoy the famous Oktoberfest, a traditional festival focused on the beer, cuisine, and culture of Bavaria. But once you look past the festival itself you’ll see that Munich is an incredible city filled with outstanding art, architecture, and history.

Munich, which is spelled München in German, is the capital of the German state of Bavaria. It is the nation’s third-largest city and is home to over 1.5 million people. Although the city has a relatively short history, being first mentioned in the 12^th century, it was an important power within the former Holy Roman Empire and also as the independent Kingdom of Bavaria.

Munich was arguably the most important city for Baroque Architecture north of the Alps and is also home to many highlights of Gothic and Renaissance Architecture. This article will show how Munich is much more than just the host city for Oktoberfest, but rather an influential historic city bursting with amazing works of architecture.

Pre-History and the origins of Bavaria

Bavaria is a region in the south of modern-day Germany. Bordering Austria, and Czechia, it is the largest of the German States. Bavaria was first settled during the Iron age by various Celtic tribes. The area was then swallowed up by the Roman Empire in the 1st century BCE, and it remained a Roman territory until the 5^th century CE, after the fall of the Western Roman Empire.

Eventually, after the fall of the Romans, Bavaria became part of the growing empire of Charlemagne during the late 8th century CE. Charlemagne’s empire was eventually divided into three, the easternmost part became the foundation for the Holy Roman Empire. Also referred to as, the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation, this “empire” actually functioned more as a complex coalition of states, rather than a typical empire or kingdom.

The Holy Roman Empire contained hundreds of individual kingdoms, duchies, principalities, and counties, which were all banded together beneath the Holy Roman Emperor. Bavaria thrived as a duchy within the empire and was a very important economic and cultural region.

Benedictine Monastery

As the Duchy of Bavaria solidified its power within the Holy Roman Empire, a small group of monks constructed a monastery near the banks of the Isar River, a tributary of the Danube River. Historians aren’t completely sure when the Benedictine Monastery was founded, but it was most likely about 950-1050 CE.

Its easy to identify the location of this site within the modern city of Munich, because the Peterskirche or St. Peter’s Church sits on the foundation of the original monastery. St. Peter’s Church, was built in a Romanesque style originally in the 12^th century, and then again in the 14^th century after a fire. A massive 299’ (91 meter) bell tower was added in the 17^th century, and was built in a Renaissance Style. Today the Peterskirche remains the oldest church within the Munich city center.

The Benedictine Monastery slowly grew into a small settlement, and a bridge was constructed over the Isar River, which provided fantastic toll income for Munich. Thanks in large part to all that sweet and steady toll money, Munich became more noteworthy and was first mentioned on a historic document written by the Holy Roman Empire in 1158.

Duchy of Bavaria within the Holy Roman Empire

During the beginning of its time as a duchy, Bavaria was ruled by the House of Welf. Eventually, after a conflict with the Holy Roman Emperor, the House of Welf lost its claim to Bavaria, and control of the duchy was given to the House of Wittelsbach. The Wittelsbachs would eventually be an extremely successful dynasty, controlling Bavaria from 1180 until 1806. Their dynasty would be responsible for nearly all of the Munich Architecture you’ll read about below.

Around the time of the power transfer to the Wittelsbach Family in the late 12^th century, the Duke of Bavaria proclaimed Munich to be the capital of the realm. This was a real turning point for Munich, and the once quiet and isolated monastery transformed into a leading city in the middle ages. Also in this time, during the Gothic period, many of the city’s most famous monuments were built.

In approximately 1392, construction began on the Old Town Hall. The building was originally designed in a Gothic style but was heavily modified later on. Today the Old Town Hall is primarily Gothic but also borrows heavily from other styles of architecture. The majority of the exterior was restored in the 19^th and 20^th centuries.

As the capital of Bavaria, Munich was an important military outpost, and like most medieval cities, a large fortification system was constructed in the 13^th-14^th century. The city was encircled by a large stone wall that contained multiple gates and towers. The wall was built from 1285 to 1337 taking 52 years to complete. Nearly all of the wall was subsequently demolished, but three of the gates still remain; the Sendlinger Tor, Karlstor, and Isartor.

The Wittelsbach Family, Dukes of Bavaria, also began construction of a large castle within the city. This castle would serve as their royal residence, and was built within the medieval walls. The original building featured towers, ramparts, and a moat, but today almost none of these elements remain. Later on, the Royal Palace of the Wittelsbachs, known as the Munich Residenz, was built on the foundations of this medieval castle.

Many notable buildings date to the 14^th century, in particular, thanks to the growing power of the Bavarian Rulers. In 1328, Louis IV was crowned Holy Roman Emperor. This lead to one of the high points in Munich’s long history. It goes without saying, impressive architecture is often a result of a society’s wealth and power. During and after the reign of Loius IV, the city witnessed a cultural and economic boom which lead to the arrival of many notable artists and craftsmen.

As Munich began to develop within its walls, two large open areas were kept clear of buildings by Royal Decree. The Marienplatz and the Viktualienmarkt, are two of the most beautiful squares located in modern Munich.

The Marienplatz has served as Munich’s main gathering place since the 12^th century. In 1683, Mary’s Column or the Mariensäule was erected within the Square. The column has since become a symbol of Munich. The Viktualienmarkt is the larger of these two medieval squares, and today it hosts a daily market as well as one of Munich’s most notable beer gardens.

Arguably Munich’s most famous building, the Frauenkirche was also built in the middle ages. The church, which is in a Late Gothic Style, was completed in a relatively short period of time. Constructions began in 1468 and took just 20 years.

The short construction timeline is why the building has a very cohesive composition, with nearly all architectural features being in the Gothic style. The church is built of local red bricks, and the two towers measure 323 feet (98 meters) in height and are topped with domes. These domes were completed in 1524 and are the only major element of the church not built during the Gothic Age.

Renaissance Architecture in Munich

The Renaissance, which began in Italy in the 15^th century eventually spread north through nearly all of Europe. Borrowing elements from the classical age of the Greeks and Romans, Renaissance Architecture eventually became the in-vogue style within Munich. Various dukes commissioned large building projects during this time period, particularly Duke Wilhelm V who ruled from 1579-1597.

The largest Renaissance church north of the Alps, St. Michael’s Church, was built in Munich during the 16th century. The front elevation was made to mimic other churches that were built previously in Italy. Throughout the interior and exterior, the church contains textbook elements of the Renaissance. The round arches, Corinthian Columns, pediments, and overall symmetrical design all combine to make masterful work of Renaissance Architecture that rivals the greatest works of Italy.

During the 16^th century, the Bavarian Dukes made huge changes to their royal residence. From this point onward the Munich Residenz became more of a palace than a fortress as it was previously. Multiple wings, courtyards, and grand halls were all constructed in a distinct renaissance style.

The Antiquarium is my personal favorite room in the building, the architecture, and art within the space work extremely well together and resemble other works of Palatial Renaissance Architecture such as the Apostolic Palace in Vatican City.

Right next to the Residenz, the Wittelsbach Rulers of Munich built a massive garden known in German as the Hofgarten. It is a great example of Renaissance Landscape Architecture. A highlight of the park is a central gazebo, the Dianatempel. Originally only accessible to the Royal Family and their guests, today the Hofgarten is open to the public and the greenspace is regularly used by Munich’s local population.

One of the most powerful Renaissance Bavarian Rulers was Wilhelm V. He was a beer enthusiast and founded the Hofbräuhaus, a brewery and beer hall that is still used today. I personally wished I lived in a world where government-commissioned bars were still a thing, but unfortunately, times have changed.

Baroque Architecture in Munich

Eventually, after being Europe’s leading building style for two centuries, the Renaissance Era gave way to the Baroque Era. Although the transition was a result of a multitude of complex factors, many historians agree that the concepts within the Baroque Style originated with the Catholic Church and its attempts to combat the rising Protestant Reformation.

This part of religious history is incredibly complicated, but the Protestant Reformation and subsequent Catholic Counterreformation completely changed the course of European History. To summarize: various parts of Europe, particularly in Germany, began to divulge from the Catholic Church which for millennia had been Western Europe’s most dominant religion.

The Protestants were largely upset because of the lavishness and splendor of the Vatican in Rome and wanted reforms which made the church more pragmatic and follow the ideals of the early Christians.

The leader of Catholicism, the Pope, tried to combat this with a campaign of art and architecture that was meant to inspire awe and impress the populace, and thus the Baroque Style was born. Eventually, support for the Protestants grew, and a confusing multi-sided war broke out between several European Powers.

This conflict, now referred to as the Thirty Years’ War, had a huge influence on Munich’s Architecture. The rulers of Bavaria, The House of Wittelsbach, sided with the Pope throughout the war. This decision is the driving factor for the plethora of Baroque Architecture that can be found in modern Munich.

Additionally, Bavaria and Munich became even more powerful after the Thirty Years War, as the Duchy of Bavaria was promoted to the Electorate of Bavaria. This promotion allowed the Bavarian Duke to cast a vote in the election of the Holy Roman Emperor. Just like in the middle ages, the additional power aided the construction of huge building projects.

The Church of the Holy Spirit, or The Heilig-Geist-Kirche, is a Baroque church located in Munich’s city center. Although the original building was completed in the Gothic era, the main façade as well as the church’s interior were remodeled in the 18^th century. The Theatine Church was also constructed using Baroque Architecture. It faces the Odeansplatz and the central dome is a distinct feature in the city skyline.

Outside the city, the Wittelsbachs began to construct multiple palaces in addition to their main Royal Residence within the city center. Of these palaces, the two largest are Schleissheim Palace and Nymphenburg Palace. Of the two, Nymphenburg Palace is the larger and older building. It rivals the Palace of Versailles in France and has an elaborate interior with Baroque and Rococo elements.

Munich’s largest park, the English Garden or Englischer Garten, was created in 1789. This park is the city’s largest by far, and with an area of 1.4 mi² (3.7 k²) it is one of the largest urban parks in the entire world. The landscape is of the English Garden style, a more natural style of garden that closely resembles an untouched landscape. Today it’s one of Munich’s most popular attractions, especially with locals.

Rococo Architecture in Munich

Baroque Architecture, which was known for its complex geometries and over the top detail, eventually evolved to be even more complex and more detailed. This transition is a point of contention among architects, some calling it the Late Baroque Style, while others refer to it as a totally new style, Rococo Architecture.

Personally, I’ve always been split on the issue. I find that many religious and public buildings display the same principles of more typical Baroque Architecture from the 17^th century, just with more intensity in the trademark elements. But to me, the architecture you see in Royal Palaces in particular looks like a completely new and evolved style. I think of these as Rococo. Munich is a fantastic case study for these differences thanks to its various Baroque buildings.

Just like in centuries prior, the Bavarian Dukes added to the Residenz building in the heart of the city. New halls and art galleries were built, such as the Ancestral Gallery which contains portraits of the various rulers of Bavaria. Nearly every surface of the Ancestral Gallery is covered with frilly, ornate, and intricate wood carvings which are coated with gold leaf.

Again, to me, these intricate wood carvings are a divergence from the ideas within the Baroque Style. They are meant to show off the wealth of the Bavarian Dukes, and a way for them to see how much gold they can force into one space. I would call this Rococo rather than Baroque.

In contrast, the Asam Church is quite possible my favorite baroque building anywhere. The building was built and designed by the Asam Brothers as a private chapel. The Asams were well-established artists and craftsmen within Munich. From the interior, the occupant is overwhelmed by the sheer complexity of the art and sculpture.

The frescoed ceiling in particular is a masterpiece that showcases the main ideas of Baroque architecture. At the front of the church, the main façade also contains typical baroque elements such as ornate sculptures and arches that curve in multiple directions.

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Although Asam Church and the Ancestral Gallery at the Residenz were built basically at the same time, I would call the former Late Baroque and the latter Rococo. Obviously this is open to debate, but I think the architecture and the message behind it is different for both buildings.

Munich Architecture within the Kingdom of Bavaria

Although the power of the Holy Roman Emperors had been steadily declining for centuries, Bavaria remained an Electorate Duchy within the Empire for nearly 300 years. That all changed thanks to that famous egotistical ruler of France, Napoleon Bonaparte. After several lost battles in the Napoleonic Wars, the Holy Roman Empire was officially disbanded which essentially established Bavaria as an independent kingdom.

The Kingdom of Bavaria, which lasted from 1806 until 1918, was one of the greatest European powers of the 19^th century. The six kings that ruled during this time commissioned many different buildings and projects. Throughout the 19th century, work was underway on the Königsplatz, a large square containing several buildings. The Königsplatz is home to some of Munich’s greatest Neoclassical Architecture.

This style was extremely popular in the 19^th century, with Neoclassical becoming the dominant style for government buildings in particular. This was evident within Germany and elsewhere including Washington DC and London. Königsplatz is unique because it shows off the three different orders of classical architecture, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. These various orders are identified by their unique column capitals and were used frequently in Neoclassical buildings.

The Feldherrnhalle is a monumental loggia built overlooking the Odeonsplatz. The structure was completed in 1841. The loggia, which is built in a Neorenaissance style, is a nearly identical copy of the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence.

During the Kingdom of Bavaria, the population of Munich grew significantly. Large suburbs steadily spread out from the city center. In a massive urban planning project, the various kings constructed four large avenues connecting the city center with the suburbs. These four avenues: Breinner Straße, Ludwigstraße, Maximilianstraße, and Prinzregentstraße are all monumental roadways each lined with impressive buildings of different architectural styles.

In 1810, the king hosted a huge celebration to commemorate his royal wedding. Just outside the city center, most of Munich’s locals congregated for a festival of beer, food, and horseraces. On the anniversary of the event, since everyone had so much fun last year, the locals again gathered for festivities. Eventually, this annual tradition grew in popularity, creating the Munich Oktoberfest which is still one of the most widely celebrated festivals on earth.

While technically, the Oktoberfest doesn’t really have anything to do with architecture, the festival remains an important part of the city. The culture of communities coming together to eat and drink has affected Munich’s cityscape in a big way. This is why several outdoor beer gardens can be found all over the city including in the Viktualienmarkt, and the English Garden.

Architecture after the unification of Germany

Following other unification movements in Europe, such as the one in Italy, several German-speaking kingdoms banded together to form the German Empire. Like the Holy Roman Empire before, the German Empire was a conglomerate of different states, but now the government structure was more centralized.

Although Munich was no longer the capital of its own kingdom, the city still thrived within the German Empire. Many important buildings were completed during this time period from the late 19th to the early 20th century. The New Town Hall, which overlooks the Marienplatz, is another one of Munich’s landmarks. Many visitors to the city assume that the New Town Hall is hundreds of years old because it is constructed in a Neogothic Style, resembling buildings from the 13^th-15^th century.

The tower of the New Town Hall is 278 feet (85 meters) high and can be seen throughout most of Munich. Within the tower, there is a large clock, complete with a mechanical show that goes off as the hour changes.

On the upper portion, figurines of the Royal King and Queen watch a jousting match, and shockingly, Bavaria is victorious every time. Below on the lower level, a group of coopers or barrel makers all do a synchronized dance. The clock tower is a popular tourist attraction with large crowds gathering to watch the performance each day.

The largest museum in Munich, the German or Deutsches Museum, opened in 1925. The museum sits on an island on the Isar River and is connected with the city center by several bridges. Although made up of many different types of architecture, the clock tower and various facades of the building are highlights of the Isar Riverfront.

After the unification of Germany, the Wittelsbachs still remained as the most powerful family in Bavaria. In 1864, Ludwig II became king, and his rule would be widely criticized by the Bavarian people. Ludwig II was a lover of art, music, and architecture. He spent huge amounts of his time and money financing massive art and building projects. The most notable of these expenses were several palaces and castles he had built throughout Bavaria.

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While located about two hours away from Munich by car, Neuschwanstein Castle is a very popular day trip from the city. The castle which was built in a Romantic Style is widely known as Bavaria’s “fairytale castle.” It was one of Ludwig II’s most expensive projects, and he received a lot of criticism in his reign because of it.

Many Bavarians thought he was focusing too much on his personal projects and neglecting his people. Despite the controversy, Neuschwanstein Castle remains one of the most visited sites in Germany and is one of the most famous castles in the world.

Munich in WWI and WWII

In WWI Germany and Munich fell onto hard times. There was an allied blockade of the country which lead to food and supply shortages. Munich’s architecture was relatively unscathed by the conflict. But shortly after the war, Munich became the central city for Adolf Hitler and the Nazi Party.

The Nazis attempted to overthrow the local republic government in Munich in 1923. The event, known as the Beer Hall Putsch, failed and lead to the arrest of Adolf Hitler. But eventually, in 1933, the Nazi Party came to power in Germany, and again Munich was a leading city within their organization.

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After the outbreak of WWII, the city was an important military outpost in southern Germany. But unfortunately, like many German cities, it was bombed nearly flat during Allied Air Raids. In the latter stages of WWII, the Allies modified their bombing strategy. Instead of focusing on specific targets like factories or railroads, large area bombing raids were performed over some of Germany’s most populous cities.

Munich was one such city, which is why so much of the historic center was destroyed. Virtually every building listed above was heavily damaged. Unlike other cities, the people of Munich decided to painstakingly rebuild and restore their city, rather than do a modern rebuild like what was done in Frankfurt. I personally prefer the Munich method of post WWII rebuilding, as the historic sights in the city were incredibly significant and their loss would have been a huge blow to the world of architecture.

Many people heavily criticize the Allies for their area bombing raids, claiming that city centers weren’t integral parts of the German war efforts. These bombings lead to heavy civilian casualties and the destruction of some of the world’s greatest buildings. Very few German cities made it out of the war untouched, Munich being one of the cities most affected.

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Immediately after the war, thanks in large part to the Marshall Plan, Munich saw a fury of rebuilding and restoration projects. This explains why so many of the buildings in the city are so pristine today since they were heavily repaired in the last 70+ years. But many buildings were built in a simpler and cheaper fashion, lacking a lot of the ornate stonework and expensive materials that were around before WWII.

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Modern Munich Architecture

Over time Munich recovered to become one of the greatest cities in Germany. Today Munich is the home to the massive BMW Group Corporation, a car manufacturer that has been around since 1916. The BMW Headquarters is one of Munich’s tallest buildings. The adjacent BMW Welt is a contemporary building that houses a museum and is one of the greatest examples of modern Munich Architecture.

In 1972 Munich hosted the Summer Olympics, marking a high point in the city. Designed by architect Günther Behnisch, the main stadium for the games in one of the most iconic buildings in the history of the Olympics. I’ve personally always thought the design was very innovative, using a tent-like system of structural members and tension wires to create a large canopy over the stadium seating. This design was revolutionary in the early 1970s and is still replicated today.

Allianz Arena is currently the city’s largest sporting venue. Construction began in 2002 and the stadium was built to hold over 70,000 spectators. The arena is known for the use of colored lights to illuminate the building’s exterior. Allianz arena is located 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) from the city center and hosts football matches among other events.

In the early 21^st century, Munich began to embrace the Jewish History of the city. A modern Jewish Museum and Ohel Jakob Synagogue were both built to commemorate the city’s Jewish Population. Like many other cities in Germany, Munich’s Jews were heavily persecuted under the Nazi Regime, and today the construction of the museum and synagogue is a step in the right direction to commemorate the Holocaust.

Conclusion

Munich has some of the greatest architecture anywhere in Europe. I always enjoy it when you can study multiple periods in architectural history all within one place. Munich’s architecture has great examples from the Romanesque, to the Gothic, to the Renaissance, to the Baroque and Rococo. Even certain street corners and squares show multiple periods of architecture within one view.

Munich is often referred to as one of the most livable cities in Europe. The GDP for the city is very high, the unemployment rate is low, and it is a notable city in Germany’s tech and finance sectors. Visited by millions each year, Munich is an incredible city filled with amazing art, cuisine, culture, and architecture. Whether you go during the Oktoberfest, or during any other part of the year, Munich and its architecture are sure to please any traveler.

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